Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts

Friday, June 3, 2011

Galleria Umberto, Naples, Italy

One of the most grandiose shopping malls in the world, the Galleria Umberto, built in the shadow of the Castel Nuovo and the port of Naples, dates to the late 19th Century.Open to the elements, but still featuring a glass roof, it shows the influence of classical design and the Crystal Palace, built in London earlier in the 19th Century.Interestingly, there aren't a huge number of stores, and most of them are very expensive.The dome is magnificent, and is the centerpiece of the complex. You won't find any parking lots at this shopping mall, as it's built right up to the street and surrounded on all sides by other buildings across the street.

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Barons' Hall, Castel Nuovo, Naples, Italy

Up a long staircase in the courtyard of the Castel Nuovo in Naples, the Barons' Hall is a masterpiece of French Gothic architecture - in southern Italy.With a massive groin vault, the ceiling is unique in that its keystone is actually open in the middle with a small skylight. I have seen many Gothic vaults in the world, but never have seen this.The room, now the meeting room for the city council of Naples, is now largely unadorned; perhaps originally large tapestries or frescoes covered the walls.Civic architecture can make the difference between having a boring city, and a city that truly inspires its residents and visitors.

Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Portal, Castel Nuovo, Naples

One of the major sculptural monuments of Renaissance Naples is the portal to the Castel Nuovo.Francesco Laurana's double triumphal arch features scenes of a parade through the streets of the city.Abandoning the stiff, unnatural poses of the Medieval era, Laurana's sculpture looks back to classical art and motifs for inspiration.

Monday, May 30, 2011

Castel Nuovo, Naples, Italy

Finished in 1282, the Castel Nuovo, or New Castle, provided the rulers of the Kingdom of Sicily with a bastion in the city of Naples.The walls of this fortress are just unbelievably massive, meant to intimidate and repel attackers. The pointed stones and scalloped walls were designed to cause battering rams' blows to glance off at an angle.The massive towers punctuate the walls made of tuff, the local, sandy colored stone.Now a museum, the fortress has greeted visitors to Naples coming into the port for close to 800 years.

Friday, April 22, 2011

Villa Borghese, Rome

The Villa Borghese, now really the largest park in Rome, was once the country estate of the Borghese family.Like many powerful Italian families, they blew all of their money and had to sell off large portions of their collections and property to the state.Much like St. Louis's Forest Park, you can see great art in the park. There's nothing better than a stroll through a park to an art Museum.The actually country house in the Villa Borghese now features an amazing collection of paintings and sculpture from antiquity up through the 18th Century.

Thursday, April 21, 2011

Caserta, Campania, Italy

Every once and a while, I like to go back to the sources of much of St. Louis's architecture. Usually, that means Europe. The palace at Caserta, built outside Naples in the Campania region of Italy, sits right on the edge of the mountains that rise dramatically from the plains around the port city.A giant esplanade heads up into the mountain, terminating with a sculptural depiction of "Diana and Acteon" before heading up a steep cascade of water.It is easily one of the most beautiful places I've traveled to in the world. St. Louis has several parks that use elements common throughout palace grounds such as Caserta.The English Garden, to the southeast of the dramatic cascade, is what we in America call a park.Arranged around carefully contrived vistas that are supposed to look "natural," our own Forest Park or Tower Grove Park are the direct descendants of the English Gardens of the 18th Century.

Sunday, February 13, 2011

Dumb Idea

When I took my trip to the Bay of Naples last March, I thought it would be fun to rent a boat for myself and go around the island of Capri. As I approached the island by hydrofoil, it became obvious that taking a dinghy by myself was an incredibly stupid idea, as the waves get quite high and rugged around the base of the island's cliffs. So I stuck to the paths that snake around the island.

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

How Important Is a City's Link with Its River? A Look at Rome, Italy

All the discussion recently about the new Arch Grounds competition and how St. Louis has lost its soul by being disconnected from the Mississippi River raised some interesting questions in my mind. I started thinking about how various cities that I've visited around the world embrace their natural environment, and in this case, I'll focus on rivers.In the case of Rome, Italy, a large river, the Tiber, flows through the city. AS is the case, I think, with every major city that has a river flowing through it, the river played a major role in the city even existing. In the case of Rome, the Tiber Island, pictured above, served as a ford over the river, creating a natural nexus for trade in the Latium region.Sometime back in the Nineteenth Century, the city's residents became tired of the disastrous floods that would erupt over the Tiber's banks from time to time, and essentially built large retaining walls that block off not only access, but any real use for the citizens of the city. In all the times I have walked along the Tiber, I have never seen anyone other than vagrants walking along the lower promenade; locals see it as a no-man's land where there is no real reason to go. See the river flowing through Rome from the air here. As is common in other cities, such as along Berlin's Landwehrkanal, Rome's traffic engineers built two, one-way roads on either side of the new river embankments, further isolating the Tiber from its city.And you know what? The city of Rome is still a bustling, culturally rich and amazing city despite it. It poses the question, if the city is functioning perfectly fine up on the river banks, how important is it, really, that the city be connected to its river?Improvements to St. Louis's riverfront are needed, but it will not be a cure-all to what still ails the city. The real work must be out in the neighborhoods, where people live and work, and have to spend their lives. The age of the "Jolly Flatboatmen" is gone, and we must live with the present.

Friday, August 20, 2010

Cumae, Campania, Italy

"Excisum Euboicae latus ingens rupis in antrum,
quo lati ducunt aditus centum, ostia centum,
unde ruunt totidem uoces, responsa Sibyllae."

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Caserta, Campania, Italy

Supposedly this palace is where they filmed the palace of Naboo in the first Star Wars movie. I try to block the first prequel out of my memory, so I don't remember any of these rooms in the movie.


Monday, July 12, 2010

Positano, Amalfi Coast, Italy

Positano clings to the side of the cliffs overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. There are no cars, except on the ring road up above that loops around the town.


A Blog detailing the beauty of St. Louis architecture and the buildup of residue-or character-that accumulates over the course of time.